Five Days in Kashmir

My road show discussing new salary levels for national staff continued into Kashmir. I was able to visit MSF projects at Muzaffarabad, Hattian and Lamnian and spend at least one night at each location. I saw a lot and meet many people. This was, without question, my best week in Pakistan so far.

The following were some of my Kashmir experiences:

· My presentations to the national staff went well as most are relatively new to MSF (6 months or less) and haven’t accumulated a list of past grievances. One group even applauded at the end, which is a far cry from the Quetta mob that wanted to toss me off the roof.

· When it comes to pay increases it is universally agreed that more is better.

· The last question I was asked by staff at a presentation in Muzaffarabad was whether MSF would enter a team in the NGO cricket tournament. A discussion followed amongst the staff as to who was the best cricketer and, therefore, should organize the team.

· It seems like everywhere you go in Kashmir you hear the sound of hammering as new buildings are constructed and old ones are knocked down.

· Lamnian had been virtually flattened by the earthquake. Six months later there were many new buildings in place, many old ones in a state of disrepair, and many big piles of rubble.

· I was speaking with a group of young boys in Lamnian who spoke a little English. They told me that they were going to school, but when I asked where their school was they fell silent. I later learned that when MSF leaves Lamnian later this year the plan is to leave the small buildings behind to be used for a new school.

· The valley that Hattian is located in is very steep and narrow. At night, when looking at the distant lights of homes perched high above, you have to take care to identify where the homes end and the stars begin.

· While the resettlement process has started for some, there are others who don’t know where they will go. This is because their property no longer exists, as it had simply crumbled down the hillside during the earthquake.

· MSF is building and donating a hospital in Hattian. Walking through it I saw something I don’t normally see…MSF patients. If you had asked me what business MSF was in after my first three months in Pakistan I would have said Shipping and Receiving. If you had asked me more recently I would have guessed Personnel Management. It was interesting to see MSF’s core business, although it did make me feel a bit squeamish.

· There was a protest in Muzaffarabad one day as students protested a number of issues including the relocation of their university, the earthquake recovery program, the state government, and the national government. Good thing they aren’t Canuck fans.

· Sitting around the Expat house in Muzaffarabad on Saturday night we listened to not so distant gunfire and tried to guess whether it was from a wedding, the birth of a son, or someone out hunting.

· The best MSF cook is in Lamnian and the second best is in Quetta.