Early Observations on Lusaka

I’ve been in Lusaka for just over a week now and I’m already feeling pretty settled. That’s a good thing because I only have eight weeks remaining until my departure

The following are some of my early observations:

- The Kabulonga suburb that I live in is populated mostly by expats and middle /upper-class Zambians. The President’s House and the embassies are only about a 10-minute jog away.

- My 3-bedroom house is in a gated-community and is less than a 10-minute walk to the office. Except for periodic guests I have the place to myself. A lady named Loveness does the cleaning, laundry and even makes my bed. Apparently, my time is too valuable for such activities.

- If you come across a local while out walking and say hello first you will usually get a smile and a friendly response. However, given the number of expats around town they tend not to be the first to greet.

- My e-mail connection isn’t as good as it was in Pakistan (no more listening to hockey games on the radio), but the satellite TV service has much more to offer and thankfully only one cricket channel.

- I have six emails in my Hotmail Inbox. All are from people I’ve met over the past two years through MSF and VSO. Luis, our Medco in Pakistan, wrote me that Juan Jose, his 2-year-old son, periodically still asks for me and checks behind the curtains that I favoured during our games of hide-and-seek.

- Nothing in the city seems to be more than a 15-minute drive away.

- Tuesday evening is “Crazy Night” at the nearby Pizza Inn (buy one pizza and get a free one in the next smallest size). Is this really Africa? I didn’t realize this until making my order and during my long wait I chatted with others and watched a lot of pizzas being sold. However, I don’t think that “Crazy Night” at is of concern to most Zambians.

- I am able to use a small MSF truck in the evenings, which is great, but also a little stressful. I’ve previously driven on the left hand-side of the road and navigated traffic circles, but it still takes some getting used to. I’m adapting to using my left hand for changing gears and while turning into intersections chant to myself “stay left, stay left, stay left.”

- There are two major western style shopping malls in Lusaka – Manda Hills and Arcades – that are separated by just a few kilometres. This is where the people who have money go, although the fastest way to drive there is through a part of the “real Zambia.” Quite a contrast.

- I’ve been out for three dinners so far, going to Indian and Italian restaurants and to an Irish pub. There didn’t appear to be any Irish at the pub (probably due to the absence of Guinness on tap), but there were loads of Zambians. Overall, I’m in a very comfortable in my new setting, but know that what I’ve seen so far is not even close to what life is like for most living in Zambia.