Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Christmas in the North of Zambia

I spent the week before Christmas and the holiday break with the MSF team in Nchelenge. I figured that this would provide me with the true Zambian Christmas experience. I stayed with Vera, a Dutch project coordinator who has spent almost more Christmas’ overseas than in Holland; Lilit an Armenian mental health officer who described her religious beliefs as being Orthodox-Atheist; and Chury, a Cuban-trained Ethiopian doctor. None of us were too concerned about having any big celebration.

The Friday afternoon before Christmas was the MSF staff party. To keep the attendance at a reasonable number the employee’s were limited to bringing just one wife and only biological children. Around 200 were there, many dressed in their nicest clothes. Activities were organized for the children, who were broken into groups of pre-schoolers, elementary school age, and teenagers. There were videos and small toys such as cars and stuffed animals for the youngest and sack races and skipping for the older children. It didn’t seem like much, but for kids unaccustomed to having organized entertainment they really enjoyed themselves. The adults were more subdued until it was time for the tug-of-war competition. It was hilarious to watch well-dressed women pulling on the rope with all their might. In all, the party seemed to be a big success and the youngest children departed clutching to their prized new toys.

Christmas Day in Nchelenge was pretty much the same as every other day. Most shops were open and people were out doing their regular activities. Lilit prepared a barbeque dinner and we had a nice evening with balloons, wine and lots of laughter. Sitting in the north of Zambia, not far from the borders of the Congo, Tanzania and Malawi, I knew that I would always remember my Christmas in deepest, darkest Africa.

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